French terry is a medium-weight knit fabric with a mostly smooth face and uncut loops on the reverse. Those loopbacks distinguish it from common sweatshirt fleece, whose inner loops have been brushed into a fuzzy nap.
Fibre and performance
French terry may contain cotton, polyester, viscose, or blends, often with elastane. The name describes construction rather than fibre. Weight, loop size, and blend determine whether a particular cloth is fluid, structured, warm, or highly stretchable.
It is generally more substantial than lightweight single jersey but often lighter and less insulating than heavy brushed sweatshirt fleece. Common uses include sweatshirts, joggers, dresses, light jackets, shorts, and loungewear.
Check stretch before cutting
A sewing pattern may require a stated stretch percentage and recovery. Test the actual fabric because these properties vary widely among French terries. The grainline follows the wales, while the greater stretch normally runs crosswise. During cutting, support the looped fabric so it does not hang off the table or distort beneath weights.
Sewing French terry
A ballpoint or stretch needle and a stretch-capable seam prevent many skipped stitches and thread breaks. An overlocker or narrow zigzag can construct seams, depending on the project. Excessive presser-foot pressure may create wavy edges; adjust differential feed when overlocking.
Ribbing is often used for neck, cuff, and hem bands. Twin-needle or coverstitch hems can retain stretch when needle, thread, and tension suit the fabric.