A hem finishes the lower edge of a trouser leg, skirt, sleeve, curtain, or other free fabric edge. Hemming turns, encloses, or binds the planned allowance on the wrong side. It protects the raw edge and influences weight, drape, and appearance.
Common hem types
- Single-fold hem: finish the raw edge, turn it once, press, and stitch.
- Double-fold hem: two folds fully enclose the raw edge.
- Blind hem: only tiny stitches catch the face fabric, making the seam inconspicuous.
- Rolled hem: a very narrow, tightly rolled finish for lightweight cloth.
- Coverstitched hem: parallel needle lines on top with a looper formation underneath, allowing stretch.
- Faced or bound hem: a separate facing or bias strip finishes the edge.
Preparing the length
Check final length while the project is worn or positioned as intended. Bias-cut skirts may need time to hang before leveling because sections can relax unevenly. Mark and press the allowance consistently without stretching it.
Curved hems are harder because the raw outer edge has more circumference than the line where it will be attached. A narrow hem, easing stitches, or a shaped facing helps control the excess.
Wovens and stretch fabrics
A straight stitch works for many stable wovens. Jersey needs a stretch-capable option such as a narrow zigzag, twin needle, or coverstitch machine. A lightweight stabilizer or wash-away support can reduce tunneling and waves.
Test stitch length, presser-foot pressure, needle, and thread tension on a scrap. The finished hem should lie flat without unnecessarily restricting the fabric’s movement.