Cutting fabric means transferring and cutting the shapes required by a sewing pattern. Accuracy matters because an uneven edge changes dimensions, notches, and seam placement and may be difficult to correct during construction.
Preparing fabric and pattern
Many washable fabrics are prewashed and dried using the care method planned for the finished item. Any initial shrinkage then occurs before sewing. Press the cloth afterward and place it flat without stretching or letting it hang from the work surface.
Paper and printed pieces also need to lie flat. For a PDF pattern, measure the test square first. Select the correct size and confirm whether seam allowance is included.
Positioning pattern pieces
Start with the cutting layout, then check the instruction on every pattern piece. Align its grainline and place any “cut on fold” edge directly against the fabric fold.
Fabric with nap, sheen, or a one-way print usually requires all pieces to face the same direction. Matching checks or stripes may require extra yardage and careful placement at seamlines.
Cutting tools
Sharp dressmaking shears make long, controlled cuts without lifting fabric excessively. A rotary cutter and self-healing mat work well for straight edges and patchwork, but the free hand must stay out of the blade path. Keep separate scissors for paper so fabric shears remain sharp.
Fine pins or pattern weights prevent pieces from moving. Weights avoid pin marks and pair well with rotary cutters, while pins may give slippery layers more security.
Transferring markings
Notches are cut only a few millimeters into the seam allowance. Darts, pleats, pocket positions, and other internal marks are transferred with a method suitable for the fabric. Tailor’s chalk, removable pens, tracing paper, and tailor’s tacks behave differently, so test the method on a scrap first.
Place every required piece before making the first cut. This final check confirms quantities, mirrored pairs, direction, and whether the available yardage really accommodates the full project.