Explanation
Needle size refers to the diameter of the needle shaft, measured in hundredths of a millimeter (e.g. 75/11).
It determines how smoothly a needle passes through fabric and embroidery thread, and how reliably stitches are formed.
The size describes the thickest point of the needle shaft just above the needle eye.
Choosing the correct size affects:
- thread protection,
- consistent stitch formation,
- the risk of thread breaks,
- the appearance of the embroidery motif,
- stress on the fabric.
Common needle sizes in machine embroidery
Typical sizes include:
- 65/9 – very fine, for thin fabrics and fine threads
- 70/10 – light fabrics
- 75/11 – standard for most embroidery
- 80/12 – 90/14 – thicker fabrics or high stitch densities
Manufacturers generally recommend matching thread thickness and needle size:
| Thread weight | Recommended needle |
|---|---|
| 40 wt polyester/viscose | 75/11 – 80/12 |
| 60 wt thread | 70/10 |
| 12 wt thread (very thick) | 100–120 |
Why needle size matters
1. Protecting the thread
If the needle is too thin, friction at the eye increases → thread breaks.
Manufacturers emphasise that both needle diameter and eye size are crucial for smooth thread passage.
2. Clean stitch formation
The correct size supports:
- reliable loop formation,
- proper hook/greifer pickup,
- fewer skipped stitches.
A needle that is too small can increase the risk of skipped stitches, especially at high stitch densities.
3. Protecting the fabric
Needles that are too large can cause:
- visible holes,
- damage to knit fabrics (e.g. laddering or broken fibres),
- distortion in the embroidery area.
Needles that are too thin bend more easily and may fail to form a proper stitch.
Needle size by fabric type
| Material | Recommended needle size | Typical point type |
|---|---|---|
| Fine knits | 70/10 – 75/11 | Ball point |
| Very fine fabrics / silk | 60/8 – 70/10 | Small ball point |
| Denim / terry cloth | 80/12 – 90/14 | Medium ball point |
| Leather | 80/12 – 90/14 | Sharp point |
Needle size by thread weight
General rule: the thicker the thread, the larger the needle.
Only then can the thread pass smoothly and stitches form reliably.
Signs of using the wrong needle size
- Frequent thread breaks
- Skipped stitches
- Thread looping or loose stitches
- Visible perforation or damage to the fabric
- Needle bending or breaking
- Embroidery looks stiff or “cardboard-like” (too large needle + high density)
- Stitches sink into the fabric
Practical tips
- For standard embroidery thread (40 wt): use 75/11
- For metallic thread: choose 80/12
- For dense stitch patterns: use one size larger
- Change needles regularly – worn needles cause many common embroidery issues
- Always run a test stitch when changing fabric types
Summary
Choosing the correct needle size is essential for:
- clean embroidery results,
- fewer stitching errors,
- gentle treatment of both fabric and thread.
Together with needle point type, thread weight, and stitch density, needle size forms the foundation of high-quality machine embroidery.