A pattern piece is one component of a sewing pattern. A top, for example, may use separate pieces for the front, back, sleeve, collar, facing, and pocket. Cutting and joining those flat shapes in the correct way creates the three-dimensional project.
Information found on a pattern piece
Along with its outer cutting line, a well-drafted piece contains information needed for cutting and construction:
- piece name and number
- view and size lines
- cut quantity, such as “cut 2” or “cut 1 on fold”
- grainline
- notches and matching points
- darts, pleats, pocket placements, and style lines
- lengthen or shorten lines
- whether seam allowance is included
Not every printed line is a cutting line. Dart legs, fold lines, and placement markings are normally transferred to the fabric rather than cut away. Read the pattern legend before using scissors.
How many pieces should be cut?
The cutting instruction determines whether a piece is cut once, as a mirrored pair, or from several materials. A sleeve is commonly cut twice as a left and right pair. A back piece may be placed on the fabric fold, producing one symmetrical piece when unfolded. Collars and facings may require additional pieces in interfacing.
When cutting in a single layer, paired pieces must be mirrored. Placing the same paper template face up twice can produce two left pieces instead of one left and one right.
Transferring markings and matching pieces
Notches can be transferred as shallow snips that remain inside the seam allowance or marked with chalk. Dots and internal lines may be transferred with tailor’s tacks, a tracing wheel, or a removable fabric marker. Test the chosen tool on a scrap because some marks can stain or reappear after pressing.
During assembly, corresponding symbols show which edges belong together and where easing, gathering, or a design feature begins. A temporary basting stitch can secure slippery fabric or difficult curves before the permanent seam is sewn on a sewing machine.